Cold cream is the stuff of beauty legend. It dates back to Rome in the 1600s and its popularity continued for much of the 20th century. Ponds Cold Cream, which launched in 1905, was a staple in our grandmother’s beauty bags, and all the cool kids used Noxzema in the ’80s and ’90s. But in the last few decades, cold cream dropped off the radar a as we gravitate towards stronger, more active cleansers. Recently, though, we’re back to gentle, gentle cleansing, and with the launch of the Juneberry & Collagen Cold Cream Cleanser ($39), Alpyn Beauty is here to remind us why cold cream is so good.
“Cold cream is an emulsion of water in an oil molecule,” says Kendra Kolb Butler, founder and CEO of the brand. “When you apply it to the skin, the water evaporates and the skin gets a very refreshing sensory effect. It’s very, very good for smoothing and softening the skin, it’s simply the best for removing makeup.”
Just three years ago, a dermatologist told us that cold creams “contain no ingredients that are amazing for the skin,” so “you shouldn’t expect them to be a skincare savior.” But with this new launch, Alpyn Beauty is “Skincare has come a long way in terms of innovation,” says Kolb Butler. “I wanted to make a more modern, up-to-date version of a cold cream, using our wild plants and some clinical ingredients, but removing most of the no-no’s that we don’t use, like phenoxyethanol, parabens, fragrances and all those things that they had the cold creams of yesteryear”.
The star ingredient in the formula is the wild June berry. “Juneberry is actually a very powerful antioxidant and literally grows in my backyard in Jackson Hole, Wyoming,” says Kolb Butler. “I’ve been studying and watching this plant for a long, long time, because it’s technically known as a super berry, which means its antioxidant content is extremely high and it’s also packed with tons of vitamins.”
Unlike cold creams of the past, Alpyn Beauty’s offering goes above and beyond to provide gentle physical exfoliation through jojoba pearls. “Jojoba is very, very small. It’s a micro-exfoliator, it’s spherical, so it doesn’t cause tears or abrasions on the surface of the skin,” says Kolb Butler. “As you apply this cream and get that smoothing, hydrating, antioxidant protection from wild June berry, you can also get a little bit of movement in your skin with dirt, sebum, lingering oil molecules, whatever that’s sitting on the surface with that jojoba. So it gives you this polish, a little bit of gentle exfoliation.”
The first time I used Alpyn Beauty cold cream, I was instantly impressed with the way it felt. Kolb Butler set out to recreate the “sensory and refreshing experience”, he remembered using his mother’s cold cream when she was little, and that is exactly what he has done. When you rub the product into your skin, you get a tingling and cooling sensation, which is equally amazing for waking up your complexion in the morning and resetting your skin at night. You can use it as the first step in a double cleansing routine, but I’ve been using it on its own and don’t feel like I need a second step (even when I’m wearing makeup). After rinsing, my skin feels smooth and clean.
There are many products in my cleanser collection that I really love, but this is the only one that I really look forward to using. I have been enjoying it for the last few weeks and I know it will feel even better as we enter the colder and drier months of the year thanks to its powerful moisturizing abilities. It’s nothing like your grandmother’s cold cream, and for that, I’m grateful.
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